Sunday, April 26, 2015

Filomena's Journeys by Maria Aurora Couto





Unravelling Human Trajectories
  

  “There is no greater agony than bearing an untold story inside you.” Maya Angelou
Maria Aurora Couto, Goa’s daughter and Padma Shri awardee whose latest book Filomena’s Journeys has been shortlisted for the Crossword Book Award, is a pristine presence in Goa. Her quest, propelled by incessant coaxing by friends and a deep yearning to unearth answers for herself, led her to analyse personal trajectories of her family through the prism of social and cultural context of Goa’s milieu.  Writing a ‘no holds barred’ memoir of her parents, family and culture, searing through the veneer of a culture and lives lived (intimate and personal) must have taken immense courage, reflection, research and analysis. The writing evolved through a process of sifting, rummaging, rejecting and illuminating findings (at times, shocking) of the newspapers of the first half of 20th century Goa, the Annuario and numerous conversations with family and friends. A mammoth journey undertaken by the writer with great sensitivity and empathy to unravel eponymous journeys, symbolic of every girl growing up in Portuguese Goa. A catharsis, cleansing by itself, deliverance, is anybody’s guess.

Couto’s mother Filomena Borges, reminiscent of the character of Heidi (a book by Johanna Spyri) in her childhood was a woman grounded by the harmony and camaraderie of an extended agricultural community. Life lessons assimilated from the vastness of nature, its vagaries and rootedness, timeless qualities; which seemed to have seeped into her persona, making her a woman of substance. Faced by adversity, she sought faith (nurtured on Saibin Mae church feasts, worship of St Filomena, obeisance to Goddess Kamakshi), family, neighbours and mundkars to bring up her seven children as a single mother in Goa and Karnataka. The expository writing on Filomena’s growing-up years and thereafter till she reached the ripe age of ninety transcending culture, language and geography is an engaging poetic rendition of love, homage and admiration, by Maria Couto.

Her father’s trajectory is another story. ‘Death changes the living forever’, says Coutu. Plagued by dogged memories of a ‘mercurial, conflicted father,’ Couto sought answers from the social, political, cultural mores of Goan society. The ubiquitous practice of keeping dark family secrets under wraps (a famous example which comes to mind is Bertrand Russell and his family history of madness) has been completely subverted by the writer. The closet is open and readers feel validated and inspired by what surfaces, because human stories remain the same across ages and boundaries.   

Antonio Caetano Francisco (Chico) a lusophone, led a pampered, leisured and pageantry lifestyle of the landed elite. He passionately sought fulfilment of an all-consuming desire to be an illustrious musician and master of ceremonies. His passion was cruelly thwarted when not recognized and legitimatized in his strata of society (the then page 3), which supported music as a coveted asset for the elite but not as a profession. Couto elucidates: “Society has unwritten codes, which in a sense diminish and potentially destroy the personality of individuals with originality, those who experience a sense of self that does not fit any conventional slot. Chico’s predicament led to isolation, perhaps a feeling of being trapped.  Unable to break away from this milieu, a half rebel, too sensitive, Chico found solace in ways that led him on a downward spiral.”

 A comparison to Catherine’s predicament in Wuthering Heights would be most appropriate.  Her wildness, too, was an outcome of the rejection of gender identity as defined by a bourgeois society of the 18th century.  Catherine’s  was a women’s anguished voice which revolts; a haunting presence, always to remind of that which is denied to her and of what she actually wanted to be.  Couto’ s technique of a third person narrative seems to be a conscious decision, to distance herself and be more objective in her appraisal of the state of affairs.

‘An apparition in pink tulle’ (Filomena) and Impagavel (an endearing epithet given by Filomena to the irrepressible, irresistible, incorrigible Chico), a striking couple; the twain could have met at intersections of kitchens (here was life they felt, throbbing, living, exciting), in their children’s future or the flame that they had lit between them when they met, but it was not to be. Couto says that the web of societal pressures, norms and expectations with a tumult of failures and success created a wave, wherein her mother strengthened by centuries of rural tradition rode the crests and troughs to triumph, but her father caught in a whirlpool of conventions drowned in a trough of passions and vanquished desires, never to surface again. As Thoreau said ‘Most men lead lives of quiet desperation and go to the grave with the song still in them’.

The poignant rendering of this story of her parents is interspersed with delineations of Portuguese Goa; haunting lament of a Mando juxtaposed with the sonorous revelry of a choral composition. A mores so strong as to cast a lasting shadow on everything it perpetuated or extolled. She details the feudal lifestyle with sprinklings of warmth and prosperity (the passages on landscapes, harvests, church feasts, weddings and explorations of countryside are indeed pleasurable) with undercurrents of exploitation of mundkars by the bhatkaar class, the caste politics (Brahmins and Chardos and their power wars) with malignant agendas, the extravagant and flamboyant standards of living and the blind aping of western lifestyles. Maybe Couto is being prescriptive in her illuminations of society (as suggested by other critics) to unveil a leisured class and its underbelly of alcoholism and politics. She advocates an alternative life of mind to better the parameters of living in her society.

The interwoven wefts and warps of Hindu-Catholic faith is another engrossing ingredient of her rich tapestry. The demolition of the temples e.g. the temple of mother goddess Kamakshi in Raia and the process by which the converts invested the power of the goddess myth in the Virgin Mary- Nossa Senhora, Saibin Mae explains multiple church feasts in which people of both faiths pray at the same shrine (e.g. the recently concluded feast of the Church of The Lady of Milagres, Mapusa). The gay abandon of singing, dancing, sartorial indulgences is a feast to the senses, helping conjure an era of celebration and opulence.

Portuguese Catholicism is aptly contrasted with puritanical Protestant British Indian faith. The former revelled in lavish feasts resonating with a sensuousness of sound, light, colour, incense, whereas the latter marked austerity as the hallmark of all faith.  She quotes Alito Sequeira, the sociologist: ‘The Portuguese doctrine of the assimilados, the emphasis on the absorption of Goa and Goans into Portuguese culture and identity, and with the granting of Portuguese citizenship, the Goans began to think of themselves as Portuguese without relinquishing their Goan identity; ambivalent and highly complex state of affairs where they gave up the native traditions but clung to caste identities.’ The dichotomy of the process of Lusitanisation and preference for English language and education, too, is an intriguing revelation in the book.    

The focus shifts to the next generation (she and her siblings) in the last section, and the story comes full circle when Maria Aurora Couto relocates to Goa with her husband’s appointment as Planning Commissioner of liberated Goa to great fanfare and honour. A metaphysical connect here imbues the story with an epiphany, worth a read and Couto’s foray with civil protocol too strikes a sweet note.
Filomena’s refrain through troubled times ’Vamos a ver; deixe estar; esquec bai, tudo isto ha-de passer’ (let us see; let it be; forget it; all this will pass) providentially prevails. Peace and happiness reigns through the family and a liberated land and culture, a fairy tale with a happy ending. But then, aren’t we all living one? The human predicament, embodiment of a tale, full of sound and fury, wherein we strut and fret our lives on stage, which could change if we saw the bright light at the end of the dark tunnel which signifies everything! 

Sunday, April 12, 2015

Literary Fests in India




Is India Reading ?

Reading habit in India has come of age, considering one lakh and a half footfalls at the Jaipur Literary Festival 2015.  Litfests in the country are the new genre of festivals gaining momentum over the last few years.  Every other city boasts of an art/lit fest,   Apeejay  Kolkatta Literary Festival, the Mussourie Writers’  Festival, the Hay Festival  and Bookaro, to name a few.  Is it a passing fad or a lasting phenomenon and has the common man become an avid reader?  These are questions which spring forth, but going by the mere 10000-sold mark for a book to become bestseller in India , the story needs to be  investigated.

I was a delegate at the Goa Art/Lit festival . Into its fifth year, the Intenationa l Center  Goa  was beehive of activity for four days last December.  Book launches, regional  and global voices, food and translations, culture and politics found centrestage at the fest.  The mood of discussions and debates propelled me to continue the experience and I found myself part of the burgeoning crowd of intellectual elite at the Jaipur Literary Festival.  It was hosted at the Diggi Palace within the heart of the Pink City. Readings were held simultaneously at six venues (lawns and halls) of the palace.  What heartened me was the turnout and active participation of youngsters at the readings.   It was a congregation of the intellectual elite from various cities of India and abroad in their winter best. The writers, literary agents and publishers from India and abroad completed the circle of the most elusive and celebrated people from the world of books.

The talks at lit fests celebrate great writings from poets and writers, lyricists and novelists, environmentalists and journalists, and the power of great ideas to transform our way of thinking. The festivals become a playground of the exchange of views and meeting of minds that inspires revelations- personal, political and educational. A Chinese writer at JLF remarked  that he was both astonished and warmed by the wide open debate between writers, journalists, members of the civil society and the audience without any embargoes. He felt intrigued by the diverse voices applauding and at the same time critiquing the government and other policy makers. Queer literature too finds a voice at festivals, and has been the force for widespread consciousness amongst people. .
The festivals are global in their reach and yet anchored by several Indian languages. Bollywood, rappers and food aficionados are equally represented at such fairs. Young adult workshops on the latest pedagogical practices in education and the children’s hour at the Goa fest was a great success.  
The bookshops engage the crowds effectively by proudly displaying works of all writers in attendance. The DSC prize for best South Asian literature and the showcasing of the Booker of the Booker prize shortlists are programs not to be missed. The Khuswant Singh Poetry prize is an addition to the same genre, coveted and awaited through the year. The readings run clockwork with close adherence to the printed schedule and protocol.

That’s the bookish side of the picture. The other side introduced the idea to the spectators that though we are here for books and books only, it would be too boring without music, food and controversies to sum the matter on a somber, pleasing note. The venues look like  a commercial hub, with food stalls, crowds and local cuisine and fashion in full splendor. Did this showmanship detract book lovers and writers from their activity of serious discussions or spurred them on with its alluring whiffs of colour is a matter of debate in itself. Goa remains more intimate and personal with close interactions between writers, musicians and the small but effective audience.   

Coming back to our original question of whether the events (I have been part of the Bookaro, and Kala Ghoda Lit Fest too sometime back) are an evidence of our revolutionizing reading habits in the present times of the visual media and gadgetry. The pointer is towards young India with never-ending deadlines and short attention spans. Or is it a cool quotient to be seen at such spots of the literary elites? You mention books, as you drop names, without having read them.  Maybe they are new centers of business and touristy agenda under the garb of literary and cultural promotions.

The fast growth and explosive popularity has achieved the inclusion of corporate sponsors. An example in case maybe the Jaipur literature festival,  which this year became Zee JLF. In the solitary world of books, reading and writing, these incursions are indicative of a defining change in the modern times of writing, selling and promoting books. The ubiquity of the market has definitely invaded the world of books.  Certain writers and avid readers like to remain far away from such happening fairs.  But the question remains ‘Is the general public reading?’

Brand Books Festivals are here to stay. What form it will evolve into, only time will tell. Let’s wait and watch as the Tamasha continues, says Amitav Ghosh.